Consult the troubleshooting document titled “Z-Axis Stall” for detailed diagnosis So how do I go about ordering a replacement cable?. I just received $ worth of spare parts for my Summer Sign Season. . The very first run I did upon recieving it, you guessed it z axis stall. During this carve I received one “Z Axis stall” error message. I reset the I never got around to sending it in for warranty repair, life has a way of distracting you . ?vendor=ringneckblues.
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Removing and Replacing the Y-truckTo remove and replace the Y-truck you will need the following tools: Ready the machine by unplugging it from the power outlet and placing it on a stable work platform. Raise the replacenent up several inches and move the Y-truck to the center of the machine for best access.
Ready the flexshaft for removal from the Z-truck: Move the Z-truck to the very top of its travel until it reaches the hard stop so that the flexshaft support tube protrudes from the head cover See Figure 2. Detach the flexshaft from the top of the Z-truck: The flexshaft assembly is retained by a ball detent located in the flexshaft receptacle See Figure 3. Firmly grasp the flexshaft support tube while reaching under the clear front cover with your other hand to grab the Z-truck.
Pull up firmly on the flexshaft support tube and twist slightly while bracing the Z-truck. The flexshaft will pop out of the carvesright.
Wrap the end of the flexshaft in tape so that the core will not fall out and lay the detached flexshaft end to the side. Remove the screws securing the cover: Remove the four cover screws as shown in Figure 4 with the 2 Phillips screwdriver.
Use a magnetic tipped screwdriver if possible to avoid dropping the screws into the machine. Detach the cover and locate the cover cables: Lift the cover straight up and locate the two cables still connecting it to the head.
On the side nearest the AC cut motor you will see the cable that connects the cover interrupt switch. For this repair we want to avoid disconnecting this cable if possible. If for some reason you have to disconnect this cable to entirely remove the head cover, you will need to locate and disconnect the two bullet connectors at the back of the AC motor.
In most machines you will need to remove the screw in the small plastic enclosure to access the two bullet connectors. On the opposite side you will see the 8-wire head cover cable harness terminated with a pin connector.
Unplug the head cover cable at the head connector board attached just to the left of the Y-drive motor pack.
CarveWright service replace y-truck Pages 1 – 16 – Text Version | FlipHTML5
You may have to reach underneath the head to unplug the cable. Notice how the cable is routed alongside and under the Y-truck motor pack. This routing is important to remember when re-assembling the cover. Lay the head cover to the side: Make sure to avoid pulling on the cable during the rest of the repair.
You can also lay the cover over the side as shown in Picture 1 of Appendix A. Remove the right side panel assembly: Remove all four side panel fasteners. Using the 10mm socket remove the two hex head bolts and washers from the top of the assembly. Remove the two Phillips head screws from the base of the side z-aaxis with the screwdriver. Lift off the side panel. Detach the FFC cable guard: Unplug the 8-wire cable carverwight from the Z-motor pack from the slot in the FFC cable guard.
Remove the screw holding the FFC cable guard. Disconnect the FFC cable: Unplug the FFC cable from the connector. It may be glued in place so take care in pulling it straight out. Lay the cable to the side out of the z-xais. Remove tension from, and free, the Y-belt: Using the 4mm Allen wrench, remove the Y-belt tension shoulder bolt and spring. Loosen, but do csrvewright remove, the Y-belt tensioner plate screw. Slide the tensioner plate to the left so that all tension is relieved from the belt.
Slip the end of the belt over the pulley on the tensioner plate. Slip the opposite end of replacdment belt over the pulley in the Y-drive motor pack.
Remove the Y-truck roller bearing wipers: Remove all four of the roller bearing wipers on the Y-truck by gently pulling them off. Also if your machine still has a Z- truck Flag, as in Figure 1, you may remove it permanently. It is no longer used or needed.
E06 – Z-Axis Stall – CarveWright Support
Rotate the adjustable roller bearings: First push the Z-tuck to its lowest vertical position. This allows the best access to the two adjustable roller bearings and their screws. To remove the Y-truck, the two top adjustable roller bearings will have to be rotated to clear the vertical rails or in some cases entirely removed. Since permanent thread cement is used to secure the roller bearing screws we cannot simply unscrew them.
Using the 12mm flat wrench rotate the roller bearing studs clockwise about half a turn so the Y-truck can be pulled off the rails. Before drilling make sure that you have placed a towel or other cover over the sandpaper belt trays.
This cover will catch the metal shavings and will prevent them from contaminating the machine. Repeat for both rollers. Remove the adjustable roller bearings: Using the 12mm flat wrench and the screwdriver remove the two adjustable roller bearings from the Y-truck.
Follow the drilling procedure in step 13 if the screws cannot be extracted. Make the repair to the Y-truck assembly. Prepare the new Z-truck: If you had to drill the screws out of the adjustable roller bearing you will have to obtain two new sets of bearings and screws.
Before placing it back on the machine, place a small dab of permanent thread cement along the length of the screw threads and assemble the rollers to the Y-truck assembly. Orient the rollers such that the hex stud on the roller bearing faces away from the truck. In this first step start the thread but do not tighten it.
It is imperative that the thread cement be used on these screws or they will loosen quickly during operation. Assemble the Y-truck back onto the head: Re-assemble the Y-truck with the loose rollers onto the rails.
Loop the belt over both pulleys to help stabilize the assembly. Hand-tighten the roller screws to hold the assembly in place. Re-tension the Y-truck belt: In order to keep the truck in place while you tighten z-axid, replace the Y-belt tensioning shoulder screw and spring with the 4mm Allen wrench See Figure This screw and spring set the tension on the belt to the correct level.
Tighten the shoulder screw all the way down. Tighten the Y-belt tensioner plate screw. Tighten the adjustable roller bearings: This is the most important step in the replacement process. First using the 12mm flat wrench to hold the roller stud, tighten the roller screw so that the face of the hex stud is snug against the back of the Y-truck casting.
Do this for both rollers but do not fully tighten catvewright screws. See Figure 16 and 17 for a comparisonof a properly and improperly assembled roller. Preload the bearings against the vertical rails: The adjustable roller studs are made such that the screw hole is off center of the central bearing axis.
By rotating about this screw axis the bearings can be tightened and preloaded against the vertical rails. Once the rollers are zaxis so that they are flush to the back of the casting we will use the flat wrench to preload them against the vertical rails.
Using the flat wrench, rotate the bearing roller counter-clockwise until the bearing contacts the vertical rod. Do not hold the screw in place while rotating the bearing for this step. Once contact has been made rotate the wrench slightly clockwise in carvewribht to take all load off the bearing and vertical rail. They can still be touching but not loaded against each other. Using the wrench to hold the stud in place hand carvewtight the screw with the screwdriver do not tighten all the way yet.
After tightening check to see that the hex stud is till flush to the casting as replacenent Figure Repeat steps a-d for second bearing. Next, turn the wrench counter-clockwise as seen from the front of the machine while holding the screw in place. Alternate tightening each roller only slightly to balance the preloading.
After each tightening check to see that the hex stud is till flush to the casting as in Figure The proper preload level is replacemetn when you can no longer rotate the bearing against the rail with your fingers.
If it is too loose you will be able to have the bearing skate across the rail surface without the truck moving.